#RATINGPOL.ELO SWISS MANAGER UPDATE#
#RATINGPOL.ELO SWISS MANAGER MANUAL#
#RATINGPOL.ELO SWISS MANAGER UPGRADE#
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So I would certainly recommend but be prepared for some time to understand and fine-tune. Getting the right settings in Cura or your slicer of choice is absolutely vital - I've been using retraction of 0.5mm and 35mm/s which seems to work - I've seen very little if any stringing on the parts I've printed so far :) I accidentally printed a small part with my old profile with a higher retraction which resulted in horrendous clicking, grinding and lack of extrusion! Setting it back reulted in buttery smooth and quiet operation. BUT maybe that also transfers more heat into the heatsink as it has two extra thermal paths. The Creality also seems to have a better design in that the block attaches to the heatsink with two long screws so that the two don't move when changing the nozzle which can happen with the MS hotend. My gut is that the Creality might be better as there is more surface area for cooling but haven't tested that and would be difficult to without testing temperatures etc. The only difference is that the MS cooling fins are fatter and less of them than the Creality part - not sure which is better. I could have ordered just the DD without hotend. The all metal hotend wasn't new to me as the Ender 3 v2 has one as standard now and looks pretty much the same. That's for PLA though, not tried flexibles or other materials through it. Tension seems about right as they suggest with the screw end flush with the knob, maybe a little bit more. I also flared the opening with an allen key so there's less catching on loading. It's a crazy bit of design though and really needs a machined part I think. It also helps to make sure the PTFE tubing is absolutely straight and aligned with the V notch in the correct orientation so the gears don't touch and put it out of alignment.

#RATINGPOL.ELO SWISS MANAGER MANUAL#

You really need a handle to help manual filament insertion.

As someone else here mentioned, loading at first is difficult. However, it does take some time to get used to.

#RATINGPOL.ELO SWISS MANAGER UPGRADE#

The MS DD for Ender 3 v2 has been a good upgrade and has significantly helped with getting great prints. I can now get very fast near flawless prints and regularly print at 80 or occasionally 100 mm/s with great results.

#RATINGPOL.ELO SWISS MANAGER CODE#

I have an Ender 3 v2 with CR Touch that I've modified with quiet fans all-round, new feet, dry box, Briss Fang v4.4 MS, klipper and octoprint with a Pi Zero 2 W running it and a 4' hyperpixel screen running octoscreen - fantastic kit! I've spent days in klipper tuning pressure advance, input shaping and getting G Code macros etc sorted. I'm highly technical so new concepts and understanding of mechanical processes in 3D printing come fairly quickly to me. I've only been 3D printing for a few weeks - but solid at 12+ hours per day so have learnt a lot.

1 x Micro Swiss All Metal Hotend (If option selected).

Stepper motor and roller wheels are NOT included.

If your extruder motor gear is pressed in, you will need to purchase a new stepper motor to be able to complete the installation. Before ordering this kit, p lease check your extruder stepper motor.

#RATINGPOL.ELO SWISS MANAGER UPDATE#

We notice a recent extruder stepper motor update on Creality machines. InstallationВ Instructions Video byВ My Tech Fun forВ Ender 3 V2

Ender 3 V2 *Fits V2 with printable Fan Shroud.

CR-10 (Will NOT directly fit CR10 V2, V3).

Prints flexible filaments with high speed and accuracy.

Short, highly constrained filament path.

Hardened tool steel, CNC precision cut gears.

No modification required, simple plug and play.

Micro Swiss Direct Drive Extruder is a drop in system for CR10 / Ender Printers

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